So. Buenos Aires. The town that I can never spell correctly first time.
Firstly, our hostel was epic. It had a hair dryer. And a TV with English TV shows. And a kettle, albeit a stove top kettle. But yay. These things seem like unbelievable luxuries to me now. The temperature of the town was also far more to my liking, as was the food. And men kept offering me seats on public transport. Yay for Buenos Aires. Stamp of approval.
The actual things that matter in Buenos Aires were also good. We went on a walking tour on the first day, which took us on the buses and subways, taught us about Gardel (who IS tango) and Argentinian history/politics, and showed us the only Kosher McDonalds outside of Israel, as well as the touristy stuff, the Casa Rosada, the parliament, beautiful old buildings, used and unused.
We had an Evita day on the second day. I’ve had the songs of the musical going around and around my head since we took the bus to the city. So we went to the graveyard where she is buried – although “buried” isn’t really the word for this graveyard. It’s like a bunch of little houses and the coffins are just left in. Sometimes in full view. See the photos. It’s a little weird. But also strangely beautiful. After that, we went to the Evita Museum, for a very different Evita story from the musical. Much more pro-Evita!! But it was super interesting. Still have the songs in my head now and I want to read a more balanced biography.
We took a day trip to Uruguay on Wednesday, a ferry to a little town called Colonia that used to be a smuggler’s port. It was beautiful, really charming old buildings and trees. And it smelled amazing, some sort of flower was in bloom and the scent was drifting everywhere.
On our last full day, we went to a walking tour of San Telmo and La Boca, did a little tango and watched some (far superior) tango! Unfortunately we left on a Friday, which didn’t leave us time to see a football match, which even I was up for. But it would have been crazy expensive so it’s okay. A little wandering in Palermo finished us on Friday and we were on another 18-hour bus journey to Puerto Madryn. I would have been extremely upset about leaving if this place hadn’t promised (and subsequently delivered) whales and penguins and orcas… But more on that later!